MOD 8 Restoration

[MOD 8]

Hello,
I am new to the forum and in the process of restoring what I believe is a Heller Aller MOD 8 windmill. I have been maintaining this mill for the past 25 years as it it on a family farm that I grew up on. The windmill was functional prior to removal but was showing signs of wear. It began requiring more maintenance than it did 25 years ago and needed to be freshened up. Hopefully it will be a functional windmill again, used for pumping water as it is complete with a pump, well, etc. I have already began working on the gear box and will post photos soon to this thread but for now here are some pics before I got started. I did post a thread in the introduction section and some have pointed out that the wheel is not a Heller Aller, but not exactly sure on what mill the wheel is from.
Any replies appreciated,
MOD 8

[Windcatcher530 Dan]

Welcome to the forum Jared. I believe that is a Heller Aller wheel for a couple of reasons. The sail ties are definitely Heller Aller and towards the end of their production years i was told they came out with a wheel with less and wider sails.

[Windcatcher530 Dan]

Okay I didn't realize you were in introduction and didn't see the close up pics of the sail ties it isn't a Heller Aller wheel.

[MOD 8]

Thanks for the reply windcatcher530 Dan. Interesting to know that Heller Aller might have produced a wheel with less and wider sails. I am not sure what generation or age the gear box is as I did not find anything that would indicate a manufacture date while working on the gearbox. Is there a way to identify what year(s) the gearbox might have been manufactured?

My main concern on maintaining the mill was the pivot bearing for the gearbox. The photo of the ball bearings show the wear that occurred in a years time as it would remove the chrome plating and reduce their size. Every year it required lifting the gearbox high enough to replace the ball bearings in the pivot. When I was younger I would wait for a calm day and climb up to the platform with a bottle jack and a clamp to jack the gearbox up to replace the ball bearings which was sketchy. If the bearings were worn it took a toll on the tower as it would twist the top before moving into the wind direction. I replaced the base and cap of the pivot assembly with a reproduction and the results were very similar, annual replacement of ball bearings.

Thankfully I have a friend that is a machinist and was willing to help me out with the project. The photos are of a redesigned pivot point that incorporates a tapered wheel bearing from a heavy equipment application. Also there are o rings machined into the housing on the top and bottom to prevent water from entering. Hopefully, it will require annual greasing without having to replace the bearing ever again.

Thanks again to all and please let me know your thoughts.
MOD 8

[Windcatcher530 Dan]

Looks like a good job let us know if it works!!

[MOD 8]

Thanks Dan,
I definitely will let everyone know. The tapered wheel bearing was rated for a 3 ton military application so hopefully it will support the weight of the gearbox/wheel/tail assembly along with the wind pressure factor.
Thanks,
MOD 8

[MOD 8]

Hello,
Since the snout bearing was pretty worn, and the shaft was worn especially where the oil seal rides it needed attention in this area. I had a difficult time removing the tapered pins for the pinion gears to say the absolute least. I posed that story and a few pictures in the thread in the introduction section.

I couldn't find a good replacement for the snout bearing so I went a bit different route in resolving the wear points. The machinist that made the new snout incorporated 3 roller bearings and an oil seal. From the gearbox side out there is a flat roller bearing to support the shaft close to the gearbox, followed by and oil seal, and then two sealed roller bearings. The two sealed roller bearings closest to the wheel have spacing between them for grease, and the inner seals that face each other were removed to accept grease.

Also had a new main shaft for the wheel made with new taper pins for the spur gears. Since I had to cut the main shaft out of the box it was a bit difficult to determine where the holes needed to be located for proper gear alignment. Thankfully, the machinist got it right the first time and the gears have great alignment.

[windybob]

I think that infused cast is normal on H/A mills, as with other makes. For cost reasons, (sometimes called plain bearings) the steel shaft usually wears first, as cast is harder. Many attempt have been made to improve areas of mills, to strive for better or longer performance. I think Aermotor had needle bearings in one model..( bell hub?) but opted for babbitt later. I wonder if the inner sealed bearing you have might be better with the seal removed on the case side also, to let some oil in? the outer bearing with the outer seal left in, and then the oil seal itself would help control oil leaks. There is one thing that I think might be needed, and that would be an oil return to drain oil back into the case so it doesn't pile up, and come out the front eventually? I do like your ideas.

[MOD 8]

Thanks windybob,
I had not considered a oil return to the case. My thought was to control the oil with the seal between the inner flat roller bearing and outer sealed bearings. Also was hoping that the grease between the two sealed bearings would help with some oil control as well if oil was to get past the initial seal. However, a oil return after the oil seal between the first sealed bearing would be a great idea! I will ask my machinist if that is something that could be incorporated. Thanks for the insight!

Since we are discussing oil, how much oil does the gearbox hold? Would the oil level get up to or over the main wheel shaft? What would be the recommended oil type and weight?
Thanks again,
MOD 8

[Windcatcher530 Dan]

Two quarts of transmission fluid is what a lot of us use.